The maple trees are on fire.

Crimson flames set neighborhoods briefly ablaze against a smoky-blue sky before being extinguished underfoot and ground into ash. Autumn is a torch that illuminates a path toward winter, when "every leaf glows like a tiny lamp," wrote John Burroughs. October is "nature's funeral month," said 19th century orator Henry Ward Beecher. "Nature glories in death more than life. The month of departure is more beautiful than the month of coming … every green thing loves to die in bright colors."

Fall spells summer's doom, but it's a good time to plant a tree.

Cooler weather allows plants to establish a good root system before spring's growth spurt, but Iowa State University Extension horticulturist Jeff Iles cautions that fall-planted trees may be more prone to failure than ones planted in spring. He suggests purchasing trees from trustworthy nurseries, knowing guarantees and choosing balled and burlapped trees or container-grown trees over bare-root stock.

Follow these guidelines to make your planting project a success - and anticipate your own fiery fall leaf display.

1. Plant for maturity. Remember that many shade trees will spread as much as 30 feet at maturity, or about the same distance as it is tall at maturity.

2. Location, location. Don't crowd the tree against the house or other structure or site it where branches eventually will bump into overhead utility lines. Planting a tree on the city-owned right-of-way between sidewalk and curb requires permission from the forestry department at Waterloo Leisure Services. Or check with your city to find out about acceptable trees and required permits.

3. Call Iowa One Call at (800) 292-8989 before digging (it's free). Underground utilities will be marked, helping you avoid unwanted repair bills or personal injury.

4. Keep your tree moist until planting. Handle it by the container or rootball, not the trunk.

5. Plant at the same depth as it was grown in the container, or if the tree is balled and burlapped, the level it was planted in the field. Dig a hole that is two to three times wider in diameter than the rootball. If the soil is hard or compacted, dig a bigger hole because roots may have trouble penetrating compacted soil.

6. Don't amend the soil. Adding top soil or amendments can create pockets where water will not penetrate or can't drain. You also want the tree to adapt to your soil.

7. Position the tree, making sure it is centered and firmly in place to prevent settling after planting. Partially backfill around the rootball. Water. Let water absorb into the soil, then finish filling the hole with soil, tamping down firmly. Don't compact it by stomping with your feet.

8. Build up a soil reservoir 2 to 4 inches high around the margin of the planting hole. Water well.

9. Mulch about 2 inches deep in a ring around the tree, but leave the area close to the trunk free of mulch.

10. Keep soil moist, not wet, with weekly waterings (unless it rains). Taper off when the ground freezes. Regular watering during the first two years will encourage healthy roots.

To stake or not to stake? In days of yore, staking was commonplace. Today staking isn't recommended unless the tree has a loose rootball or needs help to stand up properly when it roots. If staking is required, do it carefully to prevent damaging the tree and remove staking after one season.

Pruning is discouraged for the first three years. All those leaves feed the tree. Waterloo's forester Todd Derrifield said the theory used to be that limbing up made up for lost roots at transplanting, but roots are replenished faster if the limbs are left in place.