I've never been a gladioli fan.

The flowers seemed too stiff, formal and stodgy. While I could appreciate the blossom size and color array, how they looked always struck me as artificial.

Then I saw "Charming Beauty" and gladiolus ramosus "Robinetta." Flowers are delicate, not heavy, born on slender stalks with sword-like foliage.

Now I'm a convert. I'm ready to play the glad game.

Gladioli grow easily in well-drained, loose soil in a sunny location. Heavy, wet soils spell doom for glad corms. Some glads may bloom in light shade but grow better in sun.

Like dahlias, glads require fall digging to lift the corms and prepare them for winter storage. Or treat them as annuals and don't bother digging. This is my plan, because I like the side benefits - one less fall chore and each year, blooms will be large. Another bonus: corms and flower buds are less likely to suffer insect damage.

Gladioli should be planted in succession for waves of blooms. Plant a batch, wait 10 days, plant another, wait another 10 days and plant again. Generally begin planting in May and at 10-day intervals through mid-June.

Tuck glad clusters among perennials and roses or plant in cutting gardens. Colors include white and shades of red, purple, yellow, pink, orange and purple. You'll find some novelty colors, but no true-blue ones.

For better impact, cluster odd numbers (5-7-11) together.

Depending on variety, most glads bloom in 70 to 80 days. Some varieties bloom as early as 55 days or as late as 90 days after planting. Size matters - large, thick corms tend to bloom faster than smaller ones. Corms smaller than three-quarters of an inch may not bloom at all.

To plant, loosen soil and site corms pointed side up in holes at least four times as deep as corm diameter. Space about six inches apart. Insert stakes at planting to prevent root damage.

Mulch and water at least 1 inch each week.

Glads are susceptible to diseases. If plants appear stunted or yellowed, lift and destroy them.

Thrips love glads. These tiny insects feast on foliage and flowers, sucking them dry. Adding insult to injury, thrips overwinter on stored corms.

Prevention begins with selecting firm, healthy corms and crop rotation from year to year. Some gardeners soak corms for up to six hours in a mixture of 4 teaspoons Lysol and 1 gallon water before storing. Others use the same treatment before planting. Let corms dry before storing or planting.

To store, dig corms after a hard frost. Shake off soil and let corms cure about three weeks in a dry location. Discard old and damaged corms; treat for insects, if necessary.

Place corms in paper bags or even the legs of old pantyhose in a cool, dark and dry place between 35 and 45 F.