In a nation enthralled with image, that glamour-challenged vegetable, the potato, is gearing up for an image overhaul.

The makeover, in fact, has already begun - understandably, as potato watchers witness a slide in the sales of this richly satisfying and sustaining staple of the American table, and of products made from it.

Theories abound as to why we're eating fewer spuds than we once did: changing families, weight-loss diets, an aging population, the decline of home cooking and the rising popularity of mostly potato-free cuisines, such as Mexican and Asian, to name a few.

But stirrings in the potato world indicate the fight is on to reclaim our loyalty.

Potato growers and processors are scrambling to come up with new products, promotions and potato varieties that will catch your eye, please your palate and pry open your pocketbook.

The industry also hopes to boost the potato's nutritional profile in the eyes of weight-worried America, where, in some circles, the spud's name is mud.

The tuber's sales dip seems almost inconceivable in one sense, so deeply ingrained is it in American food tradition, whether mashed, hashed, baked, fried, seasoned in soups, soaking up the juices of a tender beef roast or drawing raves in Aunt Jane's potato salad on the Fourth of July.

The potato still has a massive following. Potatoes lead all U.S. produce in economic value, earning farmers $2.5 billion in 2001, says the U.S. Department of Agriculture. And nearly one-quarter of all at-home dinners still include potatoes in some form - more than pasta and rice combined, according to industry data.

The low-carb diet craze is one the potato people hope to battle with information about the spud's many nutritional assets, which include lots of heart-beneficial potassium, vitamin C, good amounts of the B vitamins and even some protein. (Nutrition tip: most of the nutrients are just under the skin, so it's best not to peel.)

Potatoes are also fat-free. A medium-sized, unadorned potato contains a modest 100 calories, though toppings like butter and sour cream will raise that.

"People don't actually know the nutritional content of potatoes, and they're pleasantly surprised (when they find out). It's as if they've been told they're hollow," said Linda McCashion of the U.S. Potato Board.

Beyond nutrition, the potato industry hopes to ply us with a lure that Americans find nearly irresistible: convenience. For example, there's talk of developing packaged potato products that incorporate the flavors and textures of Latin cuisines.

In fresh potatoes, consumers want the option of smaller bags, with the same quality as loose potatoes, plus an increasing choice of varieties, says the U.S. Potato Board.

Also recommended: more information in stores on how to use those spuds.

PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO CHEESE POTATOES

About 2 1/4 pounds white potatoes

1 cup milk

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Peel potatoes and cut into quarters. Place in a steamer basket set over boiling water, cover and steam for potatoes 45 to 60 minutes, or until very tender. While potatoes are cooking, combine milk and butter in a small saucepan to heat. When potatoes are tender, drain and place back into the hot pan. Add hot milk mixture, salt and cheese. Mash with a potato masher until everything is combined and creamy. Adjust seasonings and serve at once.

(Adapted from "Trattoria Cooking" by Biba Caggiano)

LATIN ROASTED POTATOES

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chili powder

2 teaspoons finely chopped garlic

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 1/2 pounds (4 medium) potatoes, cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch thick wedges

1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch thick wedges

1 1/2 cups halved cherry tomatoes

1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

4 lime wedges (optional)

Heat oven to 425 F. On lightly-oiled nonstick baking sheet, combine all seasoning ingredients. Add potatoes and onion; toss to coat evenly. Bake 25 minutes. Add tomatoes; bake an additional 7 to 10 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Transfer vegetables to large bowl; add cilantro. Sprinkle with lime juice; toss lightly. Serve with lime wedges, if desired.

(Source: U.S. Potato Board)

GARLIC MASHED POTATOES

2 pounds (6 medium) potatoes, cut into 1-inch chucks

1 1/2 cups lowfat milk

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

4 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and pepper, to taste

In large saucepan cook potatoes in 2 inches boiling water, covered, about 10 minutes until tender; drain

thoroughly, then shake potatoes over low heat 1 to 2 minutes to dry thoroughly. Mash potatoes with potato

masher or beat with electric hand mixer; reserve. Place milk, butter and garlic in small saucepan; set over

medium-low heat and simmer until heated through, beat into potatoes until thoroughly mixed and fluffy. Mix in

additional milk, if necessary, to reach desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper.

(Source: U.S. Potato Board)