CEDAR FALLS -- Jill Rechkemmer doesn't need to flip though the menu when dining at Carlos O'Kelly's.

The 53-year-old comes to the Cedar Falls Mexican restaurant for one dish, and one dish alone: Pasta Diablo, a generous platter of rotini and grilled chicken bathed in a garlic cream sauce.

"It's just amazing," she gushed, as our hostess escorted us to a corner booth on a recent Wednesday evening. "I tell everyone I know they have to try it. There've been a lot of converts."

As we dipped warm tortilla chips into Carlos' chunky salsa, Rechkemmer and her friend, Jill Burchard -- another Diablo disciple -- dissected the dish of the hour.

"It comes to the table just sizzling," Rechkemmer said. "And the sauce, it's unbelievable."

"There's cream, and sour cream and more cream," offered Burchard.

"A cholesterol jacuzzi," Rechkemmer agreed, pausing to pop another chip in her mouth. "But, oh-so-good."

The taste test

The women went on to debate whether the chain's famous chili con queso dip is included in the pasta. To answer the question, we finagled our way back into the kitchen, where Brayden Richter was preparing our meal.

"Nope, no cheese sauce," confirmed the cook, as he ladled the creamy concoction onto our three plates of pasta. "It's basically a butter garlic sauce, with chipotle peppers grinded up, which gives it more of a kick."

With mariachi music playing overhead, we headed back to the table. Our piping hot plates arrived a few moments later, topped with a hearty portion of Monterrey jack and garnished with diced tomatoes, chives and a jalapeno pepper.

My first bite revealed the dish's appeal. The Diablo sauce offers a slightly smoky tang, followed by a pleasantly sharp bite, courtesy of the chipotle seasoning.

Carlos employees said the dish is a local favorite. Fittingly, the kitchen staff has its preparation down pat.

The pasta is served slightly al dente, allowing it to hold its own in the thick sauce. And the entree's pieces of seasoned grilled chicken are unbelievably moist and add fajita seasonings to the mix.

My only quibble with this dish would be its lacks of texture. Pasta Diablo is comforting: A Tex-Mex version of mac 'n' cheese. But when I shell out $9.99 a plate, I expect something a little more dangerous.

A few simple changes -- elevating the entree's tomatoes to more than just window dressing, and blackening, instead of grilling, the chicken -- could turn this already flavorful offering into something fabulous.

Still, if you like your comfort food with a little zing, check out Pasta Diablo. Rechkemmer suggests pairing the dish with a one of the restaurant's fruity margaritas.

"When my girlfriends and I come here, we get the Pasta Diablo, and we just talk, talk, talk," she said. "Even if you're not a fan of Mexican food, you'll like it."

Contact Mary Stegmeir at (319) 291-1482 or mary.stegmeir@wcfcourier.com.