It begins so optimistically, with dreams of delicate stuffed-squash flowers and tender, tiny zucchini. But as the vines run rampant, reality soon sets in. Truth is, zucchini bread loses its charm after the 40th loaf.

What now?

Take the squash deliciously upscale. Put it in Thai curries, elegant salads and basil-flecked gratins. Zucchini also makes a marvelous base for salads and can be simply grilled - 5 to 6 minutes - in a little olive oil and lavished with fresh herbs, perhaps a little Parmesan, served with yogurt sauce with garlic and dill.

Green Curry Shrimp with Zucchini

Serves 6

1 tablespoon green curry paste

3 garlic cloves

2 cups coconut milk

4 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons lime juice

2 teaspoons light brown sugar

4 tablespoons corn oil, divided

2 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced

3 cups zucchini or yellow squash, cut in 1/4-inch half rounds

11/2 pounds prawns, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons Thai or Italian basil leaves, thinly sliced

Steamed rice, for serving

In a blender or food processor, mix 2 tablespoons of water, the green curry paste and garlic, and blend until smooth. Combine the coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, brown sugar; set aside.

Heat a large saute pan until very hot. Add 2 tablespoons oil and saute shallots until translucent, 1 minute. Add zucchini and stir-fry until the squash just browns, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer shallots and zucchini to a bowl.

Reheat the same pan and add 2 tablespoons of oil and saute the curry paste for several seconds. Stir in coconut milk mixture and simmer for 5 minutes. Right before serving, stir in shrimp and basil and cook until shrimp turns just opaque. Stir in zucchini and serve warm with rice.

Oven-Roasted

Zucchini

Serves 4

2 pounds zucchini or summer squash, ends trimmed

2 egg whites, beaten

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 cup panko breadcrumbs

1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon fresh black pepper

Preheat oven to 425 F. Thinly slice zucchini on the bias into 1/8 inch ovals and place in a large bowl. Whisk together egg whites and mustard, then toss them with the sliced zucchini until evenly coated.

Combine remaining ingredients in a shallow bowl and mix well. Dip zucchini slices into breadcrumbs and coat well. Shake off excess and place in a single layer on an oiled pan.

Roast for 15 to 20 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Zucchini Gratin

Serves 4

3 or 4 small yellow and green zucchini, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon pesto or salsa verde

2 tablespoons shredded Gruyere or parmesan, optional

1 tablespoon minced shallots

Lightly grease four small molds or mousse cups. Toss the zucchini with the shallots, cheese and pesto. Layer the zucchini slices into the molds in a spiral pattern, pressing them gently into place. Bake at 350 degrees for about 20 minutes. Let cool slightly, then invert onto a serving plate (or place a mousse cup on each plate).