Secrets to building a better burger at home

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buy this photo **FOR USE WITH AP LIFESTYLES** This photo taken Sunday May 17, 2009 shows a Leaner Beef Burger. Lean and hamburger are two words many feel do not belong together. If you want to reduce the fat while still making a moist and flavorful hamburger try this Leaner Beef Burger that uses 85 percent beef cut with lean ground buffalo, ostrich or emu. (AP Photo/Larry Crowe)

Don't let the fast food chains hold a monopoly on America's hamburger culture. A great burger is worth slowing down for.

For celebrity chef Bobby Flay, who has a new book on the subject and has recently opened Bobby's Burger Palaces in several locations, making the perfect burger involves treating "each component with the thought and respect it deserves."

Most chefs agree that ground chuck, usually labeled as 80 percent lean and 20 percent fat, is the way to go. That's because fat equals flavor and moistness. Going with anything leaner will produce a dry and tasteless burger.

Flays calls for a fairly flat, uniform patty no more than 3/4-inch thick. Try not to overwork the meat or pack the patty too tight or your burgers may come out tough or dry. Flay takes the extra step of making a deep thumbprint in the center of each burger to help keep the burger from swelling into a football-like shape while cooking.

Flay sprinkles the outside with kosher salt and ground black pepper, sometimes a spice rub, too. But he never mixes any spices, condiments, onions, garlic or fillers, such as breadcrumbs into the meat. Do that, and you've got meatloaf, he said.

A great burger can be cooked in a cast iron skillet or under the broiler, but a grill lends an unsurpassed smoky flavor to the beef. Real lump charcoal burns the hottest and longest, and adds the best flavor, but if you are using briquettes make sure they are a high quality and made of hardwoods.

A gas grill is more convenient, especially when cooking just a few burgers. You can boost the smokiness with a few water-soaked hardwood chips wrapped in a foil pouch (poke some holes in it) placed directly on the flames. Wait until it is smoking, then cook.

Flay says that the perfect burger should be a contrast in textures, which means a tender, juicy interior and a crusty, slightly charred exterior. This is achieved by cooking the meat directly over very hot heat, rather than the indirect method preferred for slow barbecues.

He also advises flipping the burgers only once in order to give the heat a chance to form a good crust on the outside.

And as tempting as it is, said Flay, don't press down on the burgers with your spatula; it not only squeezes out the flavorful juices, but also can cause dangerous flare-ups.

To keep burgers from sticking, oil your grill grates with oil-soaked paper towels. A good, sturdy spatula with a thin edge is essential for getting under the burger and easily separating it from the grill grates.

(Recipes from "Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries and Shakes," by Bobby Flay, 2009, Clarkson Potter)

Garlic Butter Burger

Start to finish: 45 minutes (15 minutes active)

Servings: 4

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

4 cloves garlic

1/2 small shallot, chopped

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

1 1/2 pounds 80 percent lean ground chuck

4 hamburger buns, split

1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

In a food processor, combine butter, garlic, shallot and parsley. Process until smooth, then season with salt and pepper.

Transfer butter mixture to a bowl, then cover and set aside for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld. Butter will keep in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Bring to room temperature before using.

Heat a gas grill to high or burn coals in a charcoal grill until they glow bright orange and ash over.

Divide meat into 4 portions. Loosely form each portion into a 3/4-inch patty and make a deep depression in the center with your thumb. Season both sides of each burger with salt and pepper. Brush cut sides of each bun with about 1/2 tablespoon of the butter.

Brush burgers with oil. Grill burgers, brushing them every 30 seconds with the remaining garlic butter, until golden brown and slightly charred on the bottoms, about 3 minutes. Flip burgers and cook until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, about 4 minutes more for medium rare, or until cooked to desired doneness. Meanwhile, toast the buns. When burgers are done, serve immediately on the buns.

Argentine Burger

Start to finish: 45 minutes (15 minutes active)

Servings: 4

For the chimichurri sauce:

2 cups packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves

4 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon smoked sweet Spanish paprika

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

For the burgers:

1 1/2 pounds 80 percent lean ground chuck

Kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste

1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

4 slices manchego cheese (4 to 6 ounces)

4 hamburger buns, split and toasted

1/2 medium red onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick

To make thimichurri, in a food processor, combine parsley, oregano and garlic. Pulse until coarsely chopped.

Add paprika, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Sauce can be made 8 hours in advance, tightly covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Heat a gas grill to high or burn coals in a charcoal grill until they glow bright orange and ash over.

Divide meat into 4 portions. Form each portion into a 3/4-inch patty and make a deep depression in the center with your thumb. Season both sides of each burger with salt and pepper.

Brush burgers with oil. Grill burgers, with grill covered, until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side, about 3 minutes. Flip burgers and cook until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes more for medium rare, or until cooked to desired doneness.

Add cheese to the tops of burgers during the last minute of cooking. Serve immediately, on buns and topped with a large dollop of the chimichurri sauce and sliced onions.

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