May has marked the beginning of camping season for as long as I can remember. Somehow we would squeeze sleeping bags, moldy tent, coolers, 40 pounds of hot dogs and eight kids into the Oldsmo-billy goat, Dad's nickname for our trusty station wagon, and off we'd go to our grandparents' farm.

Camp always followed the same protocol: Unload sleeping bags onto invisible, very fresh cow pie. Learn new vocabulary from Mom. Engage in spontaneous hand-to-hand combat with brothers that ends up in the creek. Help set up tent. Learn new vocabulary from Dad.Extinguish flaming after-dinner marshmallow by waving it vigorously back and forth until it flies into sibling's eye, provoking combat that ends up in the creek. Baked beans voted off future camping menus after mistaken indoor sighting of Northern lights. Decamp family to the car as two bulls lock horns and trample the campground in an epic struggle for bovine dominance. Awaken to your brother's feet on your face. Try out new vocabulary.

I still enjoy camping thanks in large part to beer and a pop-up camper. Choosing a camping beer is as important as choice of camping food.

Saison, elegantly unpretentious and a little wild, might just be the perfect choice. Saison is French for "season." In brewing it refers to a style of beer from French-speaking Wallonia, the southern part of Belgium. Springing from local "farmhouse" breweries of pre-refrigeration Belgium, no two are exactly alike. Available year-round, it began as a spring seasonal, brewed with just enough extra hops and alcohol to withstand summer storage and still satisfy thirsty workers.

Boulevard Brewing Co.'s Saison, part of their Smokestack Series, is an American interpretation. Pouring from the 750ml bottle builds an effervescent, short-lived foam head. The glass showcases a pale gold liquid with near-perfect clarity and a steady stream of bubbles rising from the bottom. Pale malt comes through smell and flavor. Spicy notes of tart apple and a hint of lemony citrus keep the flavor lively without veering into the sour territory of some Saisons. The hops are moderate, very floral, and linger pleasantly with a brief whiff of alcohol in the finish. All the elements add up to a balanced, slightly dry, very refreshing experience that will have you eagerly reaching the rest of the bottle.

Let the camping Saison begin! Prost!