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Dreaming of a white Christmas
It's easy seeing red (blooms, that is) during the holiday season. Poinsettias in all shades from crimson to burgundy and amaryllis with names like "Red Lion" and "Merry Christmas" are lovely --- but predictable.
This year, I'm planting a snowstorm of white amaryllis.
And I'm predicting a blizzard of white blooms by Christmas or thereabouts.
In the color spectrum, white is defined as "the achromatic color of maximum lightness, having little or no hue owing to reflection of almost all incident light," according to wordnet.
In human nature, we ascribe many virtues to the color white, such as remembrance, truth, reverence, purity, forgiveness, innocence and humility.
The white amaryllis has a simple, dramatic beauty. There are no vivid colors, splashy stripes or unusual markings to divert attention away from the flower form, shapely petals and deep throat. The color is almost iridescent, like a snow-covered lawn on a cold, sunny morning.
Most bulbs produce one to two stems, each with four or more blossoms, providing a weeks-long display.
What makes amaryllis bulbs even more appealing --- whatever the color --- is how embarrassingly easy it is to coax them into bloom. Warmth, light and water are all it takes.
Like everyone else, it seems, I'm bypassing pots in favor of tall, cylindrical and square clear glass containers. Water forcing, a technique that has been used for many years, is suddenly trendy.
You've seen the photographs in magazines and holiday catalogs showing amaryllis shooting up out of clear containers, roots on full display. It looks earthy and exotic, but it's pretty basic stuff:
1. Choose containers that are wide enough to accommodate an amaryllis bulb (or two or more for really large glass vases). Make sure containers are clean.
2. Fill the bottom of the container with about 4 inches of polished river rock or decorative vase fillers, such as glass gems or marbles.
3. Snip away brown or dead roots off the bottom of the amaryllis bulb. Leave only the healthy, fleshy white ones.
4. Place the amaryllis bulb on top of the rocks/filler with the roots down and fill in around the bulb with more decorative rocks or filler. This will secure the bulb and keep it upright. About 1/3 of the bulb's shoulders should be exposed.
5. Add water up to, but not touching, the base of the bulb. Roots will grow down to meet the water. If the bulb is allowed to actually rest in water, it will rot.
6. Check water level daily.
These are some white amaryllis varieties worth seeking out through nurseries, garden centers and mail-order sources:
"White Nymph," pure white, double blooms, green eye.
"White Peacock," a full, double version of the Red Peacock.
"Ice Queen," pure white blooms with thick petals, yellow-green throat, double.
"Antarctica," glowing white as snow, barely green throat.
"Moonlight," soft ivory blooms tinged with green, blooms reach 4 1/2 inches wide.
"Charisma," pure white outlined in raspberry.
"Picotee," soft with edges in red and the barest brush strokes of red.
This year, I'm planting a snowstorm of white amaryllis.
And I'm predicting a blizzard of white blooms by Christmas or thereabouts.
In the color spectrum, white is defined as "the achromatic color of maximum lightness, having little or no hue owing to reflection of almost all incident light," according to wordnet.
In human nature, we ascribe many virtues to the color white, such as remembrance, truth, reverence, purity, forgiveness, innocence and humility.
The white amaryllis has a simple, dramatic beauty. There are no vivid colors, splashy stripes or unusual markings to divert attention away from the flower form, shapely petals and deep throat. The color is almost iridescent, like a snow-covered lawn on a cold, sunny morning.
Most bulbs produce one to two stems, each with four or more blossoms, providing a weeks-long display.
What makes amaryllis bulbs even more appealing --- whatever the color --- is how embarrassingly easy it is to coax them into bloom. Warmth, light and water are all it takes.
Like everyone else, it seems, I'm bypassing pots in favor of tall, cylindrical and square clear glass containers. Water forcing, a technique that has been used for many years, is suddenly trendy.
You've seen the photographs in magazines and holiday catalogs showing amaryllis shooting up out of clear containers, roots on full display. It looks earthy and exotic, but it's pretty basic stuff:
1. Choose containers that are wide enough to accommodate an amaryllis bulb (or two or more for really large glass vases). Make sure containers are clean.
2. Fill the bottom of the container with about 4 inches of polished river rock or decorative vase fillers, such as glass gems or marbles.
3. Snip away brown or dead roots off the bottom of the amaryllis bulb. Leave only the healthy, fleshy white ones.
4. Place the amaryllis bulb on top of the rocks/filler with the roots down and fill in around the bulb with more decorative rocks or filler. This will secure the bulb and keep it upright. About 1/3 of the bulb's shoulders should be exposed.
5. Add water up to, but not touching, the base of the bulb. Roots will grow down to meet the water. If the bulb is allowed to actually rest in water, it will rot.
6. Check water level daily.
These are some white amaryllis varieties worth seeking out through nurseries, garden centers and mail-order sources:
"White Nymph," pure white, double blooms, green eye.
"White Peacock," a full, double version of the Red Peacock.
"Ice Queen," pure white blooms with thick petals, yellow-green throat, double.
"Antarctica," glowing white as snow, barely green throat.
"Moonlight," soft ivory blooms tinged with green, blooms reach 4 1/2 inches wide.
"Charisma," pure white outlined in raspberry.
"Picotee," soft with edges in red and the barest brush strokes of red.
More Stories from Opinions » Growing Things
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