Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:00 AM CDT
Change of season
By CJ HINES
Courier Assistant LIfestyles Editor
Autumn in Iowa -- sunny days and cool nights. A time to celebrate the season's glorious colors before winter's blanket covers the land.

When the temperature drops, leaves start to turn, from dark green to vivid red, brilliant scarlet, fiery orange and majestic purple.

But timing, of course, is everything.

"The changing color of the leaves certainly starts earlier in northern Iowa than in the southern part of the state. Generally in the northern two tiers of counties, it's usually the last week of September to the second week of October," says Jerry Kemperman from the Department of Natural Resources, State Forest Division

"It will vary somewhat from year to year, depending on the temperature and amount of rainfall. But warm sunny days and cool nights favor the formation of the red colors."

Peak leaf viewing in Northeast Iowa, Kemperman predicts, will be the second week in October.

But there's more to enjoy in autumn than changing leaves. Iowa's cornucopia overflows with plenty do, see, hear, taste and smell.

The Mississippi River area is home to some of the area's most scenic views, dotted with high bluffs, deep valleys and historic river towns.

In honor of the season's bounty, many towns celebrate with festivals, arts and crafts and antique shows, flea markets and other events.

So pack a picnic lunch, load up the kids, and head east to the mighty Mississippi to enjoy the fall spectacle.

Dyersville

If you're traveling along Highway 20, before heading north, don't forget Dyersville.

Although known for the "Field of Dreams" movie site, Dyersville is also home to the National Farm Toy Museum and the Basilica of St. Francis Xavier.

The toy museum, 1110 16th Ave. S.E, is open from 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. daily, except Christmas, Easter and Thanksgiving. It displays farm toys and trucks, as well as a diorama featuring the history and importance of agriculture. Call (319) 875-2727 for details.

One of only 33 Basilicas in the United States, the Basilica of St. Francis Xavier, at Second Street S.W., was built in 1887 and dedicated in 1889. With its 212-feet twin spires and 64 stained-glass windows, it is home to 5,000 parishioners.

The Basilica is open year round, but call ahead at (319) 875-7325.

Don't leave until you've seen the "Field of Dreams" movie site. North of Dyersville on Highway 136, and three miles east on Lansing Road is the baseball-diamond-in-a-cornfield, which was used for the 1988 movie. The site is open through Nov. 30, weather permitting.

Guttenberg

Time to stretch your legs? Climb out of the car and gawk at a scenic overlook. One in particular, with bluffs on the left and the Mississippi River on the right, can be found about 25 miles north of Dyersville on Highway 52.

Then point the car downhill into Guttenberg, nestled along the banks of the Mississippi River. This historic, picturesque river town celebrates fall each year with German Fest. Most events will take place next week along the town's National Register Historic District and the Great River Road.

Festivities begin at 7:30 a.m. Saturday, with breakfast at the school, followed by the Great River "Run for Fun" and formal opening ceremonies.

Other events include food, music, Eulenspiegel Puppet Show and magic show, beer brewing contest, quilt and arts and craft shows, wood carving displays and the Northeast Iowa Shrine Clowns. The University of Northern Iowa's International Dance Theatre will perform at 4:30 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. next Sunday.

While you're there, tour the Old Brewery, 402 S. Bluff St. The historic 1858 brewery houses a bed-and-breakfast inn, an art gallery, antiques, a beer and wine room and an underground cave. Tours are from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. both days.

Regular hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily May-December or by appointment, (800) 353-1307.

Tours of Lock and Dam No. 10, will be offered from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday. Built under the federal government's Public Works Program, millions of tons of cargo travel up and down the river yearly through the dam gates.

Pontoon boat tours of the city will begin at 11 a.m., departing from South River Park Drive.

The Lockmaster's House Heritage Museum, Lock and Dam Lane, will display the art of woodcarver Leo Franzen of West Union. Museum hours will be noon to 4 p.m. both days; there is no charge.

And for a leisurely meal with a great view, try Cafe Mississippi on South River Park Drive. The restaurant features an enclosed glass dining area facing the Mississippi River.

Fall and winter hours are 11 to 2 p.m., 5 to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 11 to 2 p.m., 5 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. The cafe is closed Sunday evenings and Mondays.

For more information about German Fest or the historic district, call the Guttenberg Welcome Center, (319) 252-2323.

Pikes Peak State Park

Guttenberg's view of the Mississippi is great, but if you want to see the river valley at its most spectacular, follow the Great River Road north, then take Highway 340 to Pikes Peak State Park.

The park's lookout point provides a panoramic view of both the Wisconsin and Mississippi river valleys. Follow the walkway to the overlook and revel in the sensation of standing at the edge of the world. The scenery is even more spectacular in fall, when leaves are ablaze in color and evergreens cast huge shadows in the forest.

Pikes Peak State Park, established in 1936, contains 960 acres, which includes a campground, picnic areas, playground, refuge houses, self-guided interpretive trail and concession stand. Call (319) 873-2341 for more information.

For history buffs, explorer Zebulon Pike discovered and named two places "Pikes Peak" -- one in Colorado and the other in Iowa. He never made it to the top of Colorado's 14,110-feet Pikes Peak, but he discovered Iowa's site first and in 1805, stood at the top of the bluff which soars 500 feet above the Mississippi River valley. He was searching out a possible site for a military fort.

McGregor

You won't need a passport to visit this Little Switzerland.

McGregor, three miles north of Pikes Peak, earned the nickname for its resemblance to Switzerland. Surrounding bluffs, a scenic river view and quaint business district make it worth a stop.

It's also an antique-lover's paradise -- within a four-mile radius are nine antique and specialty shops, including five along Main Street.

Step inside Main Street Mall, 322 Main St., and you may be greeted by your neighbors.

Barb Corson, retired principal of Waterloo's West High School, and her husband Skip, own the building, which houses 11 antique dealers' wares, including those of Roger and AnnaBelle Beck of Cedar Falls.

One week each month the Becks mind the shop. Roger retired last year as head of the Hawkeye Community College auto tech program.

"That's how we spend our retirement -- buying and selling and working. We just love it," AnnaBelle says. "We just love it up here. We just love the people. On the weekends we're swamped. Between the leaves changing and the apple orchards, sales are excellent -- absolutely our best month is October."

Among the store's offerings are pink Depression and fine glass, furniture, dolls, pottery, primitives, mirrors,, crocks, Hummel figurines and books. The building is on the National Register of Historic Places. Hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Want to spend the night? Try the Little Switzerland Inn, a bed-and-breakfast with a great view at the other end of Main Street.

Operated by Jim Franklin, the structure was built in 1862 as the home of the North Iowa Times, Iowa's third oldest newspaper. Accommodations include three double rooms, an alpine suite and chalet suite. The Inn's newest addition is Sadie's Log Cabin, which sits next door, and features a large jacuzzi and stone fireplace.

"The nice thing is that we're right on the river. I get calls all the time from people in Madison and Milwaukee wanting to know if there's a view of the river," Franklin says.

If you're feeling lucky, stop at the Miss Marquette Riverboat Casino Resort, just north of McGregor. The resort is open 24 hours a day, year-round. The hotel features a 24-hour buffet and showroom with Las Vegas-style entertainment. Call (319) 873-3531 for reservations or more information.

Now that you've reached the proverbial fork in the road, make a decision -- north, east or west?

Effigy Mounds National Monument

For Mother Nature in all her glory, continue north on Highway 76 to Effigy Mounds National Monument. Make sure you have hiking shoes.

The 1,481-acre park includes 191 known prehistoric American Indian mounds, as well as plantlife, animals, walking trails and several lookout points.

Follow a trail from the visitor center to Hanging Rock, where you can view a series of conical mounds and white-tailed deer. North of Hanging Rock is Third Scenic View, heavily forested with oak, maple, walnut, hickory, birch and aspen trees.

From Fire Point, an area believed to have been used by the Indians for ceremonial fires, you can see Prairie du Chien in one direction and Pikes Peak in the other.

At the south end of Effigy Mounds is Eagle Rock, an excellent place to spot bald eagles, which nest along the river.

A hawk watch is scheduled for Saturday and Sunday -- "our last special event for the year," says park ranger Mardi Butt-Arce. "Then we get into fall foliage and we get lots of people for that. We should starting getting some good color by then."

Call (319) 873-3491 for details.

Just up the road from Effigy Mounds is Yellow River Forest Park, which covers more than 5,500 acres.

The area includes two trout streams, scenic overlooks, picnic areas, snowmobile, hiking and bridle trails, camping and hunting.

For an "up-close and personal" view of the Mississippi, how about a paddlewheel ride? Backtrack from Yellow River Forest, head north on Highway 346, and take Highway X52 to Lansing to Backwater Cruises, Front and Main streets.

Backwater Cruises offers weekend rides, through Oct. 20 on a Coast Guard-approved, 49-passenger vessel. Passengers can view lilies and other vegetation as well as fur-bearing wildlife. For reservations or more information, call 319-544-4989. Group charters are available.

To the west, you'll find Iowa's scenic bluffs along the River Bluffs Scenic Byway. But if you're suspectible to motion sickness, take your Dramamine before getting on this roller coaster. The ride will take you along some of Iowa's most scenic hills, from McGregor to St. Olaf, Clermont, West Union, Fayette, Wadena, Volga and Elkader.

Across the Mississippi

Beauty doesn't stop at the stateline.

If you want to explore beyond Iowa's boundaries, nature puts on quite a show in Wisconsin. You can celebrate the fall season with apple, cranberry and wine festivals, Oktoberfests and other harvest events.

Drive across Marquette's bridge into Prairie Du Chien, Wisc., home to the Villa St. Louis State Historic Site, 521 N. Villa Louis Road.

The Dousman family settled here in 1836, and their home is furnished with family antiques, art and heirlooms. The site is open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. through Oct. 31. Call (608) 326-2721 for more information.

Prairie du Chien and the surrounding countryside are also full of antique and collectible shops.

And what would fall be without plump pumpkins and ripe apples?

Gays Mills, northeast of Prairie du Chien on Highway 27, has more than 1,000 acres of apple orchards. Visitors can select from Jonathan, Cortland, Greening, Red and Golden Delicious, and many other varieties of apples, as well as apple cider, pumpkins, squash and honey.

The town will also host the 39th annual apple festival, which takes place Saturday and next Sunday. Among the events will be the Wisconsin State Apple Recipe Contest, arts and crafts, a parade and fireworks. Call (608) 735-4341 for details.

For a free guide to Wisconsin's orchards, call the Wisconsin Apple Growers Association, 850 Tipperary Road, Oregon, Wis. 53575.

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